A well-built brick path adds character to a garden and, unlike poured concrete, can be lifted and relaid if it ever needs adjusting. The result depends almost entirely on what happens beneath the bricks — base preparation determines whether a path stays flat and stable or develops dips and weed growth within a year or two. This guide covers tools, base prep, laying technique, and the costs involved, whether you are using new pavers or recycled bricks.
Tools and Materials You’ll Need
Before starting, gather the following:
- Bricks or pavers – clay pavers, concrete pavers, or recycled bricks (see brick types below)
- Shovel and mattock, for digging the base trench
- Tamper (hand or plate compactor for larger areas), to compact the base
- Coarse sand, for the bedding layer not fine or beach sand
- Road base or compactable gravel, for the sub-base
- Spirit level and string line, to keep the path flat and on line
- Rubber mallet, for setting bricks without chipping them
- Edge restraints (steel, timber, or brick garden edging) to stop the path spreading over time
Step 1: Plan the Route and Width
Mark the path with a garden hose or string line before digging. Gentle curves are easier to lay than tight zigzags, particularly with rigid patterns like herringbone.
- Width: two bricks side by side (roughly 600mm) suits most garden paths; widen to 900mm–1.2m for a main entry path.
- Pattern: running bond is the simplest for beginners, herringbone gives a classic look but takes longer, and basket weave suits square or near-square paving bricks.
Step 2: Excavate and Build the Base
Dig a trench 150–200mm deep along the marked route. This depth allows for:
- Sub-base (75–100mm): compacted road base or gravel, for drainage and load support.
- Bedding layer (30–50mm): coarse sand, screeded level, for setting the bricks.
Compact each layer separately with a tamper before adding the next. Skipping this step is the most common cause of paths that sink or develop uneven sections — the same principle applies to retaining wall footings, where an uncompacted base is the leading cause of structural movement.
Step 3: Lay the Bricks
Start from a fixed edge a wall, step, or straight edge restraint and work outward. Place bricks tight to your chosen pattern, leaving a consistent 2–3mm gap for jointing sand. Check level every few bricks; tap high bricks down with a rubber mallet and add a touch of sand under low ones rather than forcing them down.
If you’re mixing reclaimed and new bricks for a blended look, lay a small sample area first to check the colour match see our guide on matching new bricks with recycled bricks for a consistent result.
Step 4: Joint and Finish
Once the bricks are laid, spread dry coarse sand over the surface and sweep it into the joints, then lightly compact or hose with a fine spray to settle it. Top up joints again after a few days as the sand settles further. Jointed sand locks bricks in place and reduces weed growth between them.
Brick Type Comparison for Paths
| Type | Best For | Durability | Notes |
| Clay pavers | High-traffic paths | Excellent | Dense, low water absorption |
| Concrete pavers | Budget projects | Good | Wide range of finishes |
| Recycled / reclaimed bricks | Rustic, heritage-style gardens | Good–Variable | Grade-dependent — see Paving Grade below |
Note: exact per-m² pricing varies by supplier, brick grade, and project volume. For an accurate quote on recycled paving bricks, contact The Brick Pit directly with your path dimensions.
Calculating How Many Bricks You Need
Brick quantity depends on the brick size, path width, and pattern (herringbone uses roughly 5–10% more bricks than running bond due to cutting). Use our brick calculator guide (bricks per m²) to estimate quantities before ordering, or contact our Smithfield yard with your measurements for an exact count.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Skipping the gravel sub-base the single biggest cause of paths that sink or pool water
- Using fine or beach sand instead of coarse sand for the bedding layer
- Not compacting each layer separately
- Omitting edge restraints, which allows the pattern to spread and joints to open up over time
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Will a brick path hold up in Australian conditions?
Yes, provided the base is properly compacted and drained. Clay pavers and well-fired recycled bricks both perform well across Australian climate zones; for more on durability in extreme weather, see our guide on recycled bricks and Australian weather conditions.
2. Can I lay a curved path?
Yes. Curves work best with smaller bricks or pavers, or by cutting larger bricks to follow the line. Rigid geometric patterns like herringbone are harder to curve cleanly than running bond.
3. What if a section settles unevenly after laying?
Lift the affected bricks, add or remove bedding sand to relevel, and relay. This is one of the advantages of a sand-bedded path over poured concrete sections can be adjusted without breaking anything.
4. Can I use recycled bricks for a path?
Yes Paving Grade recycled bricks are selected for flatter faces and consistent thickness, making them well suited to path and walkway projects. See our Paving Bricks range for current stock and grades.
Get Help With Your Brick Path Project
The Brick Pit has supplied recycled and heritage bricks across Australia since 1975. For path projects, our team can help with brick selection, colour and texture matching, and quantity estimates. Browse our recycled bricks range, view our Paving Bricks product details, or contact our Smithfield yard to discuss your project.
