To drill into brick, fit a hammer drill with a masonry (carbide-tipped) bit, mark your spot with tape, and start at a low speed to stop the bit slipping. Apply steady, even pressure and let the drill do the work — don’t force it. Clear dust from the hole regularly, and check for hidden pipes or wiring before you start. If you’re drilling into rendered brick, drill through the render first at a slow speed before moving into the brick underneath, to stop the render cracking.
Tools You’ll Need
- Hammer drill — a standard drill will struggle with brick and can burn out
- Masonry bit, carbide-tipped for best results
- Safety goggles and a dust mask
- Masking tape, for marking your spot and guiding the bit
- A vacuum or soft brush, for clearing dust
- A stud/cable detector, to check for hidden pipes or wiring
Step-by-Step: How to Drill Into Brick
- Mark your spot. Use a pencil and a small cross of masking tape over the mark — this stops the bit skating across the surface when you start.
- Check for hidden services. Run a cable/pipe detector over the wall before you drill, especially near light switches, taps, or external power points.
- Set your drill to a low speed. Starting slow lets the bit bite into the brick without slipping or chipping the surface.
- Apply steady, even pressure. Let the hammer action do the work rather than pushing hard — forcing the bit can crack the brick or cause it to overheat.
- Clear the dust as you go. Pull the bit out every few seconds to let dust escape, or use a vacuum alongside the hole. A dust-clogged hole slows drilling and increases heat.
- Check your depth. Wrap a strip of tape around the bit at the depth you need, so you don’t drill further than necessary.
Drilling Into Rendered Brick
Rendered walls need a slightly different approach, since render behaves differently to the brick underneath it.
- Start at a slow speed with the hammer action switched off, to drill through the render cleanly without cracking it.
- Once you feel the bit reach the brick underneath, switch the hammer action on and continue at a slightly higher speed.
- Keep steady, light pressure throughout — render is more prone to cracking around the drill hole than brick is.
This two-stage approach is the main reason rendered brick trips people up: drilling straight through at full hammer-drill speed from the start is the most common cause of render cracking or chipping around the hole.
Drilling Into Recycled and Older Bricks
Not all bricks behave the same way under the drill, and this matters more with recycled bricks than with new ones.
- Sandstock bricks – among Australia’s earliest bricks are softer and more porous, so use a slower speed and lighter pressure to avoid cracking or crumbling the edges.
- Dry-pressed bricks are harder and more consistent, and generally handle standard hammer-drill settings well.
- If you’re working with a feature blend or combo grade and aren’t sure which type you have, check with your supplier before drilling a quick call can save a cracked brick.
If you’re drilling into old lime mortar joints rather than the brick face itself, go gently: lime mortar is softer than the surrounding brick and can crumble more than expected at hammer-drill pressure. Our guide to what mortar is made of covers the difference between lime mortar and modern cement mortar if you’re unsure which one you’re dealing with.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Using a wood or standard drill bit instead of one rated for brick or concrete work
- Drilling at full speed straight away, especially on rendered or older brick
- Skipping the hidden-pipe check, particularly near kitchens, bathrooms, and external walls
- Ignoring cracking or crumbling and continuing to drill stop and reassess the spot instead
FAQs
What drill bit should I use for rendered brick?
A carbide-tipped masonry bit is best. Start with the hammer action off to drill through the render cleanly, then switch the hammer action on once you reach the brick.
Do I need a hammer drill to drill into brick?
Yes, for most brick and masonry work. A standard drill can work on very soft or worn brick but will be slow and may overheat.
Can drilling crack or damage brick?
Yes, if you drill too fast, apply too much pressure, or drill too close to an edge. Slower speeds and light, steady pressure reduce the risk significantly, especially on softer bricks like sandstocks.
Is it different to drill into recycled bricks?
Softer types like sandstocks need a gentler approach than harder dry-pressed bricks. If you’re unsure what you’re working with, our team can help you identify it.
What drill bit is best for brick?
A carbide-tipped masonry bit is the standard choice for any brick, rendered or not. For plain (unrendered) brick, you can run the hammer action from the start — it’s only rendered surfaces that need the two-stage slow-start approach covered above.
Need the Right Bricks for Your Project?
Whether you’re patching a wall, adding a feature, or starting a full renovation, The Brick Pit supplies genuine Australian recycled bricks across Dry Pressed, Sandstock, Combo, Paving, Builders and Face grades. Browse our products or get in touch for advice on your project.
